Bouldering is an exciting and challenging sport that requires a lot of skill, strength, and technique. One of the most important pieces of equipment for any boulderer is a good pair of climbing shoes. The best bouldering shoes are specifically designed to provide the necessary grip, support, and flexibility needed for this demanding sport.
When it comes to bouldering, having the right pair of climbing shoes can significantly impact your performance and overall climbing experience. The best bouldering shoes are designed to provide optimal grip, precision, and comfort to tackle challenging rock surfaces. Here are some top benefits and drawbacks of bouldering shoes, along with frequently asked questions about them.
What to Look for in Bouldering Shoes
Sorting through the masses of climbing shoes to find the perfect bouldering shoe is not an easy task. Differences in stiffness and shape significantly impact how a rock climbing shoe performs on different angles and types of rocks. Knowing the attributes that make one shoe more suitable for a particular kind of climbing versus another is essential. Here’s what you need to know.
Stiffness
The most crucial factor to consider when buying a climbing shoe is undoubtedly the stiffness. How soft or stiff a rock climbing is affects how the shoe will stick to the rock.
Shape
Climbing shoe shapes vary to perform better on specific types of terrain such as steep, vertical, or slab climbing. The four most common shapes are aggressive downturned, slightly or moderate downturned, flat, and asymmetrical.
Aggressive Downturned
These are climbing shoes with a sharp downturn through the toe. The curved forefoot allows for better toe-in power in steep terrain because it acts as a hook on the foothold. Aggressive downturned shoes are best used only for very steep bouldering.
Moderate Downturned
Moderately downturned shoes are similar to aggressive downturned shoes in that there is a curved forefoot through the toe, but the degree to which it is downturned is minor. These shoes tend to be the most versatile, excelling in vertical to steep overhanging climbing.
Flat
Flat shoes are what you expect them to be—flat. This style is best suited for beginner climbers and vertical climbing.
Best Bouldering Shoe for Beginners Tested & Approved
Evolv Geshido Velcro
Scarpa Booster
Black Diamond Momentum
Scarpa Force V
La Sportiva Skwama
Benefits of Bouldering Shoes
Enhanced Grip: Bouldering shoes are constructed with sticky rubber soles that offer superior friction on rock surfaces, allowing climbers to maintain better grip and footholds on small edges and holds.
Precise Footwork: These shoes have a close-fitting design with a downturned toe, enabling climbers to make precise foot placements and optimize their performance on tricky bouldering problems.
Agility and Sensitivity: Bouldering shoes are known for their sensitivity, allowing climbers to feel the rock beneath their feet and adjust their footwork accordingly, enhancing balance and control.
Toe Hooking and Heel Hooking: The rubber rand and rubber patches on the toe and heel areas of bouldering shoes facilitate effective toe and heel hooking techniques, crucial for navigating steep overhangs and roofs.
Improved Edging: The supportive structure of bouldering shoes aids in edging, helping climbers push off tiny footholds with more confidence and precision.
Versatility
Drawbacks of Bouldering Shoes
Uncomfortable for Extended Wear: Bouldering shoes have a snug fit, and the downturned shape can cause discomfort during extended wear or long climbing sessions.
Less Durability: The sticky rubber that provides excellent grip tends to wear out faster than the rubber used in regular climbing shoes, leading to a shorter overall lifespan.
Not Ideal for All Climbers: The aggressive design and tight fit of bouldering shoes may not be suitable for beginners or climbers with wider feet, as they can cause discomfort and affect climbing performance.
Price: High-performance bouldering shoes can be expensive, making them a significant investment for some climbers.
FAQs
Q. What size should I choose for bouldering shoes?
Bouldering shoes should fit snugly but not painfully tight. The right size can vary between brands, so trying on different pairs is essential to find the best fit.
Q. How do I break in new bouldering shoes?
Breaking in new bouldering shoes involves wearing them during short climbing sessions and gradually increasing the duration. This allows the shoes to mold to your feet for a more comfortable fit.
Q. How often should I resole my bouldering shoes?
The frequency of resolution depends on how frequently you climb and the type of rubber used. As a general guideline, consider resolving once the sole has worn down significantly, affecting performance.
Q. Can I wear socks with bouldering shoes?
While it's not common to wear socks with bouldering shoes due to the need for a precise fit, some climbers with specific foot conditions may prefer thin socks for added comfort.
Q. Are bouldering shoes suitable for outdoor climbing only?
Bouldering shoes are designed for technical climbing and can be used for both indoor and outdoor climbing, including bouldering, sport climbing, and even some trad climbing routes.
Q. Can I use bouldering shoes for hiking or approach?
Bouldering shoes are not suitable for hiking or approaches, as they lack the support and comfort needed for long walks. Consider wearing approach shoes or hiking boots for those activities.
Conclusion
In conclusion, bouldering shoes are a fundamental piece of equipment for climbers seeking to conquer challenging rock surfaces and push their climbing abilities to new heights. The benefits of bouldering shoes, such as enhanced grip, precise footwork, and improved edging, make them an invaluable asset for tackling difficult bouldering problems and even other climbing disciplines.